Imagine a premium product synonymous with the good life. A product with a romantic image, where using the product has its own little ceremony, complete with a satisfying sound. The product has been around for millenia, and figures prominently in religious ceremonies. It is produced and used around the world. Its price ranges from $2 to $2000 a unit.
The product is wine, and it is in the throes of a major image crisis. Wine bottles have been sealed with cork for ages, giving rise to the "ceremony" and "satisfying sound" mentioned above. But there's a problem -- there isn't enough good cork left. There has been no end of innovation applied to the problem, most of which is akin to rearranging the chairs on the deck of the Titanic. The one true solution, however, requires more innovation in marketing than most of the industry can handle.
Cork is taken from the bark of the Cork Oak tree. This can only be done once every decade or so per tree. It is a very good material for sealing wine bottles. It is light in weight; its highly elastic and stays that way, thus ensuring a good seal for a long time; it isn't very dense, which means it is fairly easy to extract; and it is slightly permeable to gases, which helps the best wines age slowly. All in all, quite a good stopper material, which is why it has been a stopper material since the Phoenicians sailed the seas.
The problem is that the supply of good cork is dwindling quickly. This is leading to a rise in the number of so-called "corked" bottles, where a harmless but incredibly stinky compound contaminates the cork and thus the wine. Estimates of 10% to 15% of cork sealed wine bottles are affected in this way.
Wine is not inexpensive or quick to produce. It requires a substantial investment of time and money, and, in spite of the fact that the inventory is sloshing around in tanks and/or barrels, it isn't a liquid investment until it is put into bottles and sold. Understandably, producers don't like to take a 10% to 15% yield hit well after the product has been sent through the distribution channel and purchased by the end user. So they have been seeking alternatives to corks made from a single piece of bark.
The industry responded with some incremental innovations. The picture shows some of the results. The top right cork is the traditional cork - a single plug. The top left is a natural cork made up of lots of little pieces of cork smushed together -- sort of like particle board. I guess you could call it particle cork. This was a natural evolution of the product, and actually quite efficient. There are lots of leftover particles of cork, so forming them into a bottle stopper was a no-brainer.
The problem with it is that the pieces don't hold together all that well, so when you push the corkscrew in, you get lots of little cork pieces floating around in your chardonnay. This is one problem. The other problem is that particle cork doesn't have the same structural integrity that single-plug cork has, and this leads to the dreaded "corkscrew tearout" phenomenon. This happens when the corkscrew is screwed in, and instead of pulling the entire cork out of the bottle, it tears a hole right out of the center. This is a bigger problem than having little pieces of particle cork bobbing around in your glass because the wine is still securely in the bottle.
The next incremental solution is seen in the center cork, shown lengthwise. The middle is made up of particle cork, but the top and bottom are made from good cork -- sort of solid cork caps on a particle cork plug. This holds the particles out of the wine and prevents (ok, minimizes) cork tear-out. It is, however, expensive.
Naturally, someone thought to apply technology to the problem. The lower right stopper is a purely synthetic plug made from a plastic material. The
lower left cork is also synthetic, but with a thin outer wall that
slides a bit better, aiding extraction. (The pure synthetic ones occasionally
take a lot of force to remove.) One of the leading producers is nomacorc, located near here in Zebulon, North Carolina.
In a refreshingly forthright description of their product, the nomacorc home page tells us that "A nomacorc® is a foamed co-extruded
still wine closure based on a highly elastic chemically inert polymer formulation." No marketing BS there!
And marketing is really what is required for this industry, because the solution is not a better stopper, it is the screw cap. Yes, the screw cap. Talk about a disruptive innovation! Boone's Farm to the rescue!
The screw cap is finding its way onto bottles of quality wine from around the world. (OK, it will be a cold day on Mercury when we see a screw top on Chateau Latour, but as the picture shows, they are getting to be more and more prominent.) It makes sense.
The closure is inexpensive. It seals the wine in and allows it to be stored in any orientation, including upright where the label is in full view. (Wine is traditionally stored on its side to keep the cork wet and expanded tightly against the bottle.) Having the label in view is key to sales, since with over 1800 producers in the US alone, consumers are pretty darn mystified by words and descriptions and tend to buy based on the graphics.
Most importantly, it always works. There is no loss due to bad screw tops. There is no problem with screwtop tearout from the corkscrew. There is no corkscrew!
The problem is one of image. Wine has a mystique, much of it built around the age-old problem of getting the cork out of the bottle. It has always been a tricky business, and one to which much innovative thinking has been applied on its own. A little digression into cork removal technology may be instructive.
Cork extraction is a wonderful illustration of how simple
machines work. Simply trying to pull the cork out on its own requires
a fair amount of strength, and often body poses that are not, shall we
say, genteel. The bottle must be held firmly in place, and if one is
to accomplish the feat by one's self, one puts the bottle between one's
feet or knees, or under one's arm, and pulls determinedly until the
cork gives up and pops out. Sometimes wine comes along with the cork,
and sometimes one grunts during extraction, or (worse) says naughty
things, all of which take the romance out of the occasion.
The waiter's corkscrew, probably the best known and widely used type,
applies leverage to the situation, and allows
the edge of the bottle to serve as a fulcrum for what the scientists
call a "second class lever". This is a huge help, and allows the cork
(assuming it is sound) to be extracted smoothly, even elegantly, with a
gentle "pop".
In a restaurant, the cork is offered to the person who
ordered the wine, who is supposed to sniff it to see if the wine is
"corked". If it smells like a wet cork, it is fine. If it smells like
a wet dog, it is not, and you should send it back. This is the problem we described at the start of this post -- 10% to 15% of wine smells like Fido.
With a screwtop, "cracking open a bottle" takes on a whole new meaning, since opening one sounds like shelling a pecan. This is not a good image. There is no cork to smell. Just twist and pour.
It is difficult to associate the finer things in life with something that is used to seal up 2 liter bottles of diet Mountain Dew. So far, the wine industry has addressed the incursion of the screw top by ignoring it from a promotional point of view. Personally, I think this is a bad move. When nature hands you a lemon, make lemonade. Celebrate the virtues of the screw top!
If you've ever been on a picnic that involved a traditionally sealed bottle of wine, but forgot to bring the extraction device of your choice, you can immediately identify with the inherent superiority of the screw cap. While a cork can be forced into the bottle, or chiseled out with a knife or a key, it is decidedly hard work, and not a positive contribution to the picnic. (What's the most innovative way that you've removed a cork?)
I can see an ad with this very theme -- a couple is outdoors, on a picnic with a nice wine, at sunset, and they are not in bathtubs like in those Cialis commercials. No corkscrew? No problem! The evening ends well because of the screw top.
A tagline is more problematic. "Screw Tops: Not Just for Boone's Farm Anymore" lacks a certain something, as does "From Jugs to Bottles".
It is interesting to watch the collision between the practical and the elegant. The wine industry derives much of its profit margin from image -- is a $50 bottle of wine really worth five times more than a $10 bottle of wine? Probably not by any objective standard. But how to maintain that image (and margin) with a screw top in the picture. If you want to extend this argument further, bottles are really not the best way to ship, store, and serve wine. ("Best" being viewed in the practical sense here.) The bag-in-a-box method is quite superior to bottles, but if you think that marketing screwtops on Bordeaux is a challenge, try pushing a 1982 Chateau Haut Brion in a three liter box!
For my part, I'll be watching the evolution of wine marketing with interest, and will keep up to date with my research. I'll keep you posted.
Cheers!
[For more information about the whole serving
process, go here. Amazon has a whole pile of "cork extractors" for sale. My personal favorite, even though I've never tried it, injects pressurized gas into the bottle, forcing the cork out. It is not called the "Wine Bomb", although that would be cool. And if you really have a lot of spare time, one website I came across in researching this post, corkscrewnet, has a frightening amount of information about corkscrews.]